Beds and showers again - May 30, 6.20pm (AEST)
We are now sitting back in the relative comforts of Katmandu- beds, showers, fresh food, space, things we have been deprived of for sixty two days. It feels almost surreal to be back in civilisation, when our relative reality was the tent city also known as base camp. We are heavily involved in the debriefing process- piecing together different parts of our final hypoxic days at high altitude, and trying to work out the missing bits of memory. I think it will take us a long time to come to terms with the magnitude of all that has just happened, and probably longer still to integrate back into the norms of society. Personally, I don't think my brain has registered the fact that I have stood on the world's highest point. I think, my body and my mind are still waiting, still thinking that there is more pressure to withstand, more training to do, more metres to climb. For the longest few months, that's how my life has been - each time you achieve a goal, there is one beyond it. The whole of Everest was broken down into small goals, and now, its done.. its finished. And I have to sit back and look at the bigger picture.
We did it. We pushed ourselves, our relationship, our minds beyond what we thought we were capable of... we shot for the stars, and we reached the tallest point on earth.
Our bodies are reeling with the health effects of such high altitudes. We all feel exhausted, clumsy, sore and generally lethargic. Living for such an extensive period of time, with oxygen saturation well below that of a patient in a respiratory ward is suddenly feeling like a very stupid idea. After Cho Oyu, it took two months to recover. I feel infinitely less strong, fit, and capable than I did two and a half months ago sitting in this very city waiting to embark on the biggest adventure of our lives. But mentally- well, anything is possible.
Flashes of experience enter our minds- in the shower, eating dinner, while doing an interview. The view on the evening at of the summit. Sitting at camp four, and looking out of the window of our tent. We were supposed to be resting, but who can sleep when you know that you are about to take the biggest risk of your entire life? Staring out of the window of the tent- it was like something I'd seen before, but not on the ground. When you wake up in the morning on a plane, and open the tiny oval shutter, and you cant see anything below except clouds, because that is how high you are- that's the view from the tent at camp four. The amazing thing, is that you are at a similar altitude as a jumbo jet- but you walked up there.
The view from the balcony- wind chill in the minus forties, and your wearing orange googles in the dark. Below are the clouds, and there is a huge electrical storm happening below, and so the lightening instead of descending upon you, is well below you and bouncing of the clouds.. And then, the view returning from the summit. Sunrise at 8,884m- you know that there is nothing above you except for heaven, god, space... whatever is up there. It is an indescribable feeling- to be simultaneously so close to death, and yet so alive. Your stomach has shut down, your peripheries are shut down- and threatening to be frostbitten, your lungs and heart are working in overdrive.. and yet, you are witnessing something that very few people in their entire lives have the privilege of seeing. Then the hugs- the summit hug, between mum and I, the tears of joy I cried hugging mum as we made it to our tent at camp four safely, at getting off the helicopter in Kathmandu, and knowing that for the first time in two months we were finally safe.
There are so many more things to say about summit day, the climb, the way down. But really at the end of the day, the biggest thing to say is thankyou. We are truly overwhelmed by how much support and love we have received from family and friends. Even more overwhelming has been the encouragement we have received from total strangers. We never expected such a response, and it has often brought us to tears. It is an honour to be inspiring so many people, and yet I hope that each of those people know just how much they have inspired us.
Cheryl Summits! - May 24, 9.11am (AEST)
At 4:50am Kathmandu time, Cheryl Bart summited Mt Everest, making her and her daughter Nikki, the first Mother/Daughter team to ever summit the world's tallest mountain.
This also means that they are the first mother/daughter team to complete the Seven Summits!
Nikki has already started back down the mountain and Cheryl will descend shortly.
While this is an historic event, the adventure is not over, as the descent is very dangerous. They will now take several hours to reach the safety and warmth of Camp 4, where they will rest.
Nikki Summits! - May 24, 9.02am (AEST)
At 4:36am Kathmandu time, Nikki Bart summited Mt Everest. Her mother, Cheryl Bart is some 25 minutes behind her. The sky above the Summit of Mt Everest is clear and there is little or no wind. It is a perfect Summit Day
Hillary's Step - May 24, 8.00am (AEST)
It's now 3:45am and Cheryl and Nikki have past the South Summit and are approaching the famous Hillary Step. This is a rocky outcrop and is something of a bottleneck in the route, often leading to delays.
There are now some 16 other teams on their way up to the summit and, although it was organised that they would make a staggered start, there is still a significant possibility of crowding near the Summit.
At this stage Cheryl and Nikki have had no problems with their Oxygen supply and they are continuing steadily.
Approaching south summit - May 24, 7.00am (AEST)
After a long but steady climb through a cold and clear night, it is now 2:45am on Mt Everest and the team have spread out over the final stages of the mountain. The leaders of the group are approaching the South Summit. This is not the true summit, and is still some 2 hours away from the real Summit.
There are an unusual number of other clmbers attempting the Summit this morning, causing traffic jams at the more difficult parts, but Cheryl and Nikki are still going strong and steady.
While there are light clouds over the Mountain now, we hope that they will arrive at the Summit for a glorious, cloud free sunrise.
Heading for summit - May 24, 1.30am (AEST)
At 8:20pm local time, Cheryl and Nikki left Camp 4, heading for the summit.
It is a dark and clear night on Mt Everest. The stars are much brighter here than at sea level due to the reduced atmosphere at this altitude. The snow has cleared, the clouds have vanished and the starlight reflects off the snow and ice. An almost full moon will rise in the next few hours, making it much easier to see.
Wearing bright, LED head-lamps, the Oz Chicks now have a daunting 10 - 12 hour climb ahead of them. But they are feeling good and strong after their rest time at Camp 4.
Safely at Camp 4 - May 23, 9.28pm (AEST)
Cheryl and Nikki have just arrived safely at Camp 4. It's been snowing for the last two hours and it looks like this will continue until sunset. The forcast is for a great day tomorrow, so the snow should abate. There is very little wind, so conditions are looking good. There were about 100 other people making the climb to Camp 4 today so crowding on the way was a bit of an issue, but the whole team made good time.
The Oz Chicks left Camp 3 at 7am local time, and made it into Camp 4 at 1pm. Six hours for this leg is considered to be good time. All members of the team are in good shape and Cheryl and Nikki feel strong and they look forward to their final push. The last leg of the ascent starts tonight at about 10pm local or 2:15am AEST.
The plan now is to get settled into their small tents at Camp 4, have as much lunch as they can stomach, and then try to get some sleep. They only have a few hours to rest before their biggest effort so far is needed. And all of this is while they are wearing oxygen masks because at 8,000m or 26,000 feet there is less than half the usual amount of oxygen in the atmosphere.
Arrived at camp 3 - May 22, 7.15pm (AEST)
Exhausted and very ready to be sucking on oxygen as we arrived at camp 3. It was a big walk up the lhotse face and as predicted it snowed on us most of the way. The whole team is doing well and now we are just resting up for an early start and a huge day tomorrow.
To camp 3 - May 21, 9.30pm (AEST)
This morning we went on a short walk to the lhotse face for morale and sanity rather than acclimatisation. We were all feeling weak and lethargic from our days at camp 2. The first teams summited today. Normally by this point in the season the last teams are getting there. The mountains is insanely crowded, and our daily pastime has been watching the dense line of ants ascend the lotse face. After much debate over the weather we have decided to start our ascent very early tomorrow morning in order to get to camp 3 with plenty of time to rest. The weather does not ideal but we are worried about losing a small potential weather window. We are in the process of checking the equipment we packed the other day and generally trying not to panic. It seems like its all happening too fast after our few days of sitting around. The adrenaline and fear have kicked back in. We have some big days ahead!
Staying put for 2-3 days - May 20, 3.25pm (AEST)
Ah the joys of mountaineering! After having adrenaline pumping through us for the last few days, it appears we are going nowhere. The weather has closed in and if we venture higher the risk of frostbite or worse is significant. So we are stuck at camp 2 for at least two or three days. It is really difficult to stay optimistic in light of this because it makes the mountain even more dangerously crowded. Also every day we live at 6500m weakens us as we cannot eat or sleep properly up here. Now we just have to rely on patience and faith.
Holes in heaven - May 19, 9.05pm (AEST)
We had an early start and made it to camp 2 in time for lunch and serious debates over the weather. The second we go on oxygen we are on the clock and if the weather is bad the fear is we could use up all our oxygen before even making it out of camp. So we are packing as if we are going, but expecting to stay at camp 2. The decision is making us all crazy. I keep on meaning to tell you about the stars at camp 2 and above. They make the entire journey worth it. We are so high up its as if raising your hands might disturb the constellations in the sky. Every cliche suddenly rings true. The stars are like holes in heaven. Sometimes the sky is so bright it illuminates all the mountains around us turning them into glowing giants. Often there are so many stars there is more of them than sky. It certainly turns brushing your teeth into a religious experience.
Ice stay up - May 18, 8.30pm (AEST)
It was an extremely emotional departure from base camp this morning with everyone getting up at 4am to say goodbye to the team. There were many hugs and a few tears as we stood at the Puja alter and threw rice for good luck. Due to nerves, none of the climbers slept well last night and we were really thankful for the support and love of everyone at base camp. It was our last walk up through the icefall, or "ice stay up" , it was renamed to make it sound less daunting, was uneventful. The terrain has changed dramatically through the warmer weather, and a few avalanches have reshaped the trail. We got to camp 1 early and none of us have brought books to conserve weight, so eight of us piled into one tent to play cards. It was a human inferno and we were very cramped but it was a very funny afternoon!
On our way - May 17, 8.25pm (AEST)
Nerves are running extremely high at base camp today. The plan is to ascend to camp one at 4:30AM. This plan is not set in stone, as we are waiting for last minute weather reports, and also to see what day other teams are planning on summiting. The ideal plan is to go to camp 1 tomorrow, then straight to two, three, four and then summit, all in five consecutive days. However, this is all dependent on the moods of the mountain. Daily we are receiving weather reports from Switzerland, based on weather modelling and then on actual weather maps. The most important aspects are wind and snow. If the winds are strong enough we will get blown off the mountain, and high snows present greater avalanche risk. However, our biggest issue at the moment is crowding. No one has summited yet this season apart from the Chinese, and given the number of sunny, windless days this is quite unusual. This means that there are over 400 climbers on the mountain waiting for one day of good weather, and double that number in Sherpa's. There is only one set of fixed ropes… One of the biggest risk factors for frostbite on summit day is being standing still. This means that waiting in line for a rope, or being stuck in a crowd on the way down is a substantial risk. Therefore judging a good summit day is crucial.
So basically, we are potentially five days off a summit attempt…. Probably the toughest five days of our lives- both physically and mentally. Are we capable of this? Has all our training paid off? Is it worth the risk? What if something terrible happens? What if we're just not good enough? Maybe we should just go home? All these questions stir endlessly in our minds. There have been fights amongst the team today, and a lot of pensive faces, and its clear that we are not alone in our thoughts and questions.
The sheer amount of effort that we have put into this climb is unbelievable. The next five days will test the months and months of training leading up to this. It will test the five years of juggling mountains and work and medicine, and all the sacrifices that we have made along the way. In the coming hours we will draw on all of the strength and support from our family and friends. We will dig into the deepest parts of our consciousness. And will it be enough? Time will tell.
We are exhausted from the last seven weeks of climbing and living at altitude. The sheer toll that this takes on the human body is surprising. From having blood on your tissue almost every time you blow your nose due to damage to small nasal capillaries, to peeing with a funnel like a man for so long, to the facial oedema, to always being out of breath, not to mention the general array of illness that passes through the team from dysentery to pulmonary oedema. Some people describe Everest as a war of attrition… and we are starting to understand why. Now all that matters is having enough strength for one day… summit day- make it to the top, and MUCH more importantly, make it back down safely.
So knowing what an unbelievable effort this all is, why do we keep on coming back? Actually, that's a question we've been asking ourselves lately. The best comparison seems to be to childbirth… at the time, you cant imagine anything more painful, and yet with time you cant remember all of that, and all your left with is glowing memories.
So, as you can see from the deep and meaningful nature of this post… we're terrified. Probably nerves are a good thing, certainly considering the task we are about to embark on.
We are excited as well… When we climbed Kilimanjaro, we were too scared to tell anyone because we we're sure it was an impossible task. Who would have thought, all those years ago, that we would be sitting at Everest base camp ready to embark on one of greatest adventure the world can offer. I never would have allowed myself the dream of touching the rooftop of the world. And yet, tonight that journey begins. At the end of the day, the mountain and our bodies will decide whether the dream will remain a dream or whether we will be able to describe to you the view from the top of the earth.
Oxygen training - May 16, 9.15pm (AEST)
Today was oxygen training and Upper Mountain briefing day and it can only be described as intimidating! We were each assigned our oxygen mask for camp three onwards, and we're made to practice with them until we were completely familiar. In addition, Victor, our guide gave us a slide show of his last three climbs of Everest to give us a feel of what the terrain was like up high. We've seen the mountain up until camp three, but it is the last 1500m that will really test us. Topics such as frostbite, clothing to wear, and high mountain rescue were also raised. One of the most dangerous aspects of Everest is the fact that from the south summit to the summit, you are too high to be rescued. Other joyful topics, such as encountering bodies en route we're raised.
Needless to say, we needed to consume large amounts of chocolate to medicate our anxiety after talk!
So it's all happening… it kind of feels very surreal! We are waiting on weather reports to see when we will go back up the mountain. At the moment, we're feeling pretty exhausted from our sleep at 7,400m, and so we don't really mind waiting a bit longer.
We spent the afternoon playing cards, reading books and generally enjoying the sun. It's nice to be in thick air of base camp!
Some play time - May 15, 6.50pm (AEST)
After a massive breakfast of pancakes, omelettes, fruit and cereal we decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and go for a walk. Someone brought a rope, and some of Chomba's chocolate chip cookies, and we headed out to the bouldering field an hour out of base camp for some rock climbing. A beautiful morning was spent trying different routes and exploring the terrain! It was certainly a more 'interesting' and less graceful type of climbing, given that all of us we're in our hiking boots. In fact we all giggled at one of the more experienced members of our group telling another that this foothold was "key" pointing to a tiny little crack in the rock that you would definitely need rock shoes to negotiate. Needless to say the climber came sliding down the rock and was caught by the rope! We all enjoyed the play time and stretching our legs. After the high pressure of the last few days, and knowing what was ahead, it was nice to just laugh and hang out!
Base camp comforts - May 14, 10.20pm (AEST)
So good to be hanging out at base camp. Body and clothes clean, eating well, playing cards, listening to ipods and reading. The plan is to rest here for 4 days then begin the summit push. Of course now everything depends on the weather forecasts, especially the wind and the jetstream.
Happy Birthday Papa - May 13, 9.05pm (AEST)
Happy Birthday Papa. Bed tea at 5am then leisurely packing bags for camp 1 and base camp. We always seem to be packing and repacking gear. Then we cruised down to camp 1 then down through the icefall down to the comforts of hot showers, sushi and thicker air at base camp. We were excited to call Papa to wish him a Happy Birthday. He is one of our great inspirations of this expedition and we miss him and our family so much.
Ice potatoes - May 12, 8.43pm (AEST)
We woke at 5am to start the stove, but none of us had done much sleeping (We'd actually been up at midnight making hot chocolate). The sun did not hit the ten until 8.30 so it was too cold to emerge from our sleeping bags until then. From there on in was a distinct reminder of the fact we are climbing Mt Everest. The wind was 25 to 30 and gusty. It was freezing cold, wearing down jackets, goggles, face masks and mittens we still couldn't warm up. The negotiating the ropes and vertical pitches with frozen fingers and the wind knocking us off our feet was very challenging! Now we are safely back at camp 2 which is a haven after being higher up. We are simultaneously exhausted and elated from our achievements in the last 48 hours!!
Joys of mountaineering - May 11, 7.45pm (AEST)
After an early start we found ourselves climbing up the Lhotse face. The season has had beautiful weather and so the face is much icier and more dangerous than usual. Then chunks of ice the size of potatoes careered down and landed on our helmets, we were very happy to be wearing them. We had a spectacular day though. To be climbing well and truly above the clouds on the tallest mountain on earth is like walking in a dream! That night though, we wished we were dreaming because sleeping at 7400m, taller than any mountain in the southern hemisphere is no easy feat! And being up there with no supplementary oxygen has certainly depleted some brain cells! The night was rather comical, 3 in a tent, Victor sandwiched between us 2 girls. All of us had a splitting headache and you can't go anywhere because the tent is balanced precariously on a ledge. This is where the concept of a "poo rope" comes in. You tie it around you waist and get dangled in the privacy of a terrifyingly large crevasse. Needless to say we all spent most of the afternon giggling about it. But everyone waited until back at camp 2 to go. Ah the joys of mountaineering.
Conga line of ants - May 10, 8.05pm (AEST)
Oh my gosh! Today was a magic day. We set off at 7:00 a.m. from camp 2 toward the lotse face. As the ropes to camp 3 were fixed only yesterday it seemed like the entire mountain was mobilised this morning.
As we looked in the distance it looked like a giant conga line of ants winding its way up the vertical ice face. We took a quick two hours to reach the base of the lotse face 400m above camp 2. It was awesome actually being on the lotse face.
Sensational day but tomorrow we know will be really tough cold steep hard climbing and sleeping at 7300m with no oxygen. But today was great fun.
Weather smiling on us - May 9, 6.30pm (AEST)
Woohoo! We are at camp 2. We're sitting in our tent looking out at the lotse face where the ropes are being fixed! What a turn around of events! We are getting a chance to climb! Todays walk through the western cwm was beautiful. You feel the full force of nature surrounded by avalanching mountains and deep crevasses. The weather has been smiling on us and we're feeling a lot less altitude sick than last time we were up here. So all excitement and nerves at camp 2!
Miracles - May 8, 945pm (AEST)
We awoke at 3am ready to ascend the icefall. The mountain had been very active all night with loud and close avalanches. It felt so good to be climbing again though! Although dangerous we are always drawn in by the beauty of the icefall. At 6am a climber walking down told us the Chinese had summitted Everest. Now we finally have a chance to climb this for ourselves. We continued ascending, spoilt by the orange hues of sunrise and by the towering giants above. All morning planes and choppers flew around the summit documenting the Chinese success. At the top of the icefall, 1.5 hours from camp, the most beautiful thing happened. We saw a rainbow in the most vivid colours circling the sun. It extended throughout the sky as far as the eye could see. TO make the ring, it was like two rainbows joined together. As we climbed higher we realised there was a third one which traversed the sky above the Lotse face of Everest. This one had even deeper, almost surreal colours. We all stood and stared, no one had seen anything like it. THis entire expedition has been worth it for the miracle and profound beauty we witnessed today in those rainbows.
Acclimatisation continues - May 7, 9.20pm (AEST)
Welcome to the rollercoaster ride that is Mt Everest this year. Last night, fter some wine, and general group misery, we all had a poor night's sleep. This morning, our sherpas went up to camp two to start fixing ropes. Tomorrow will determine whether this actually happens. At 3.30am half our team will ascend through the icefall. The other half is battling with dysentery and pulmonary oedema, and given the uncertainty are taking another day to rest. We hope they get better soon!
So, it is with mixed feelings that we pack our equipment for our next acclimatisation cycle. The ambiguity of the rules and regulations on the mountain, the politics, and the group rumours have certainly taken a toll on our strength. The icefall is a dangerous place, and you need to be mentally prepared for the challenge, so we are trying to psyche ourselves up. We will spent one night at camp one, followed by a trip to camp two, a rest day and then hopefully a trip to camp three.
It is sleeping at camp three that will ensure our complete acclimatisation... If ropes are not fixed and we cannot do this, our ability to reach the summit safely will become increasingly elusive. You need to prepare your body for what it will be like higher on the mountain…. otherwise your chances of getting pulmonary and cerebral oedema are increased. And yet sleeping at c3 with no 0xygen is not without its risks. You are at 7,500m, and your body is dangerously hypoxic and cold. The chances of sleeping or eating are minimal. It is a night that we have been dreading for months. All going well….. that night is only a few nights away!
We are not sure what security we will face as we enter the icefall tomorrow, or what the military situation will be at camp two.. but we will try our best to keep you updated!
Back at Base Camp - May 6, 10.15pm (AEST)
Yeeha! We're finally heading in the right direction!! With the massive snowstorm of yesterday having blown through we set out from Pheriche to a magic day- warm and blue skies. We'd decided there was no need to stop on Lobuche this time as we are acclimatised at these altitudes, so we pushed through passing trekkers, having showdowns with yaks and generally in great spirits, knowing we were going back to the starting line! We pulled into base camp, after a long-ish lunch at Gorak Shep- in about 7 hours just beating the first snow flurries. Within minutes the familiar sound of the mighty roar of a giant avalanche coming down greeted us! Also in the few days we've been away the topography of BC has changed again. As the glacier beneath us shifts parts of camp are severely dropping and our tent is now even more precariously perched on its site - with a giant lean to the left. Also unnerving is when you hear the ice shift and crack beneath you in the middle of the night!!!!
Today we went for a short (4 hour) walk up to Camp 1 of Pumori to try and get a glimpse over the ridge to any activity on the north side... great walk but too cloudy to see anything...
All in all our spirits have risen with our altitude gain....we have one more rest day tomorrow then hopefully we will begin our third acclimatisation cycle and be ready for Game On!
We're back!
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Rescue of a sherpa - May 5, 6.10pm (AEST)
Sometimes it's better for life to remain boring. Early this afternoon we heard that a sherpa was sick at Base Camp. When it was clear it was serious a big rescue mission was launched with the sherpa being carried down and some of our team going to meet him. The mission went well into the night and was chilling proof that when something goes wrong in the mountains you are extremely isolated. Our sherpas play a huge part in the success of the mountains. They look after our safety and our lives. We have also become very close to them. In the mountains the people around you become your family. We were all extremely worried over the course of the evening, and relieved when the next morning he was medivaced to Kathmandu.
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Patience for adventure - May 4, 8.47pm (AEST)
People often think that climbing is all about action and adventure. Yet one
of the biggest attributes a climber can have is patience. Often a storm will
roll in, and you will have to put up with the extremely unglamorous
experience of being stuck in a tent for days in a row with very little to do
except for eat and sleep. Another huge skill to have in mountaineering is
'living in the moment'. The ability to enjoy each day, and find merits in
each moment, rather than thinking about the summit will ensure sanity in an
expedition that is ten weeks long. Often these attributes are required in
the face of wild weather. Its easier to understand the extreme boredom,
frustration and tedium facing you when you know it is the forces of nature
inflicting such things. In our case, we are facing politics, armies, and
strict rules. Somehow this is much more difficult to stomach.
This is going to be our forth night in Pheriche, a town 1200m lower, and six
hours from base camp. Though we have enjoyed having a flushing toilet, a
bed, and the warmth of a yak dung fire the last few days, morale in the
team is extremely low. We wake up each morning around the time the Chinese
should summit with the Oylmpic torch, and yet hear no news. The ropes to
camp three will not be set until the torch summits, and the process of
fixing ropes should take at least three days. This means that with each day
that passes, our chance of even having a chance at climbing this mountain
diminishes. Its easy to lose motivation when you know this. We are feeling
increasingly homesick, and missing our friends, family and the creature
comforts of home. If it is all impossible for us, we want to come home now,
and yet if we have a chance, we are willing to sit this out for as long as
it takes. So it is a tightrope balance, between finding inspiration, hope
and patience, amongst feelings of demoralisation at the thought of dreams
being pulled away.
The days have also seen many helicopters flying between Katmandu and base
camp bringing more army troops, supplies and food. Base camp is becoming an
army camp rather than a climbing base. The medivac helicopters have been
commandeered to bring supplies, and people of various ranks in the Nepali
army are being flown in and out.
Rumour has it that the north side Olympic torch bearing team are going to
make their next summit push on the sixth of may. This will hopefully mean
that we can begin our third cycle up the mountain on the eighth. We have all
our fingers and toes crossed for this eventuality!
As I type this, we just heard on the radios to base camp that a serac fell
in the icefall destroying ladders and ropes. This is a stark reminder that
without all the logistical issues 2008 has delivered this is a big and
dangerous mountain with enough challenges on it own.
Tomorrow we will head back up the valley to see if we can make our way back
to our base camp home. There our dispatches and communications will be once
again severely restricted, but we will do our best to keep you updated.
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Back to 4200m - May 1, 9.09pm (AEST)
Today we made the heartbreaking trek six hours down from Everest to a town called Periche, where we stayed on the way up. With each step we could feel ourselves moving further from our goal. There was a long train of disgruntled climbers trudging through the Khumbu Valley. the highlight of the day was the baby yaks that have emerged in the slightly warmer weather. Periche is 4200m, which is not even half the height of Everest. Though we are losing acclimatisation, our bodies are very happy with the thicker air. We slept better than we have since leaving sea level! There is a lot to be said for being able to breathe.
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Happy birthday Dad! - April 30, 7.50pm (AEST)
Happy Birthday Dad. Wish we could be there sharing it with you! Today is a rest day, which the team, beaten and battered from altitude really needs. We ate breakfast outside in the sun pretending we were on Bondi beach. From here we could see all the climbers descending off Everest. As of tomorrow, despite our permits, and months of training we are all expelled from Everest while the Olympic torch is taken up the north side. Everest is a serious mental game at the best of times and I can't begin to explain what this is doing for our morale. All we can do at the moment is hope for the best. For me I took great inspiration from our last push up high, to watch the courage and determination of my Mum in spite of of all the challenges and to be here with her is a real honour.
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The Jetstream arrives - April 29, 6.45pm (AEST)
None of us slept well last night. We got our first taste of the Jetstream. You can see the plume coming off the Lotse Face during the day and at night it sounds like ten freight trains descending from above and rattling the tent. To think that one day soon we might be in a Jetstream. Descending through the Icefall tired is more terrifying than usual. Once safely back a camp we heard news of icefall scares. A friend of ours was on a double ladder that unhinged from the ice and started to topple backwards and another climber fell off a ladder into a crevasse. Luckily neither of them were seriously injured. At camp we ate more food than one eats in a week for lunch, and then showered. Washing after a week of exercise in the same clothes is one of life's greatest experiences!
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Acclimatising at Camp 2 - April 28, 6.23pm (AEST)
The past 2 days have been acclimatising at Camp 2 at 6500m. It was awesome climbing from camp 1 to camp 2 following in the footsteps of Shipton Hillary and others in the stunning western cwm, not to mention some of the deepest and most spectacular crevasses now at Camp 2, surrounded by mighty peaks especially our spectacular Everest with her famous white plume. We are camped at the side of the lotse face which is very long and particularly icy this year but its a policy of look but do not touch as the army have positioned themselves so as to deny any access beyond Camp 2. So we have to content ourselves climbing a short but icy scree slope nearby hoping to activate our red blood cells. It's all very difficult as news from the latest meeting called at Base Camp by the Major is that the mountain will be closed from 1 - 10 May with no one to sleep above Base Camp. So ropes to camp 3 and above can only be fixed after that. Some of our sherpas have gone back to their villages and we are getting more frustrated as it affects our acclimatisation program and our morale. We think we are as anxious as the Chinese for their torch to summit because then we might get our chance.
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Camp 2, Finally - April 26, 4.49pm (AEST)
Camp 2, 6500m! Finally we are here. We camped with extraordinary views of the Lotse Face, GEneva Spur and Yellow Band... Names we thought we would only ever read about. The rest of Everest looks truly beautiful but quite formidable from here. The army presence is strongly felt here and climbers are not allowed anywhere above Camp 2. We're having beautiful weather and happy to be here though!
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Avalanche on the icefall - April 25, 8.07pm (AEST)
Welcome to Camp 1. We are thankful each time we make it through the icefall. This trip, as we were making our way through the upper popcorn, named due to the precarious assortment of ice, there was a great avalanche of one of the sections above us. Ang Dorge, who recites buddhist chants the entire way through the ice fall began praying louder and throwing rice in the direction of the danger. As a sherpa and now a guide he has seen the many faces of this mountain. Once through the popcorn, Cheryl cut her cheek while holstering her ice axe. Despite a small amount of blood she is now looking tough with her wound! We are now lying exhausted in our tent after a huge day. It is hard to stay motivated after the news of the army general yesterday. The mountain will be closed between May 1 and 10 so that the Chinese can make a summit bid with the olympic torch. The restriction will continue beyond this if they do not summit by this time. This means that no climber is to sleep above Base Camp after May 1. Dropping down off Everest will see us losing critical acclimitisation we have spent the last five weeks building. Hopefully once allowed back we will be able to complete our climbing cycles without being too exhausted or running into a serious storm. With a shortened schedule, either could cost cost us even a shot at the summit.
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Happy Birthday Cheryl - April 24, 8.16pm (AEST)
Today is Cheryl's birthday. It's certainly a high and memorable birthday. Tonight we are having a big party for her and this afternoon friends from around Base Camp are visiting. On the climbing front we had a serious team meeting discussing contingency plans and options that will be dictated to us by the political situation. Three army generals arrived at Base Camp today and are threatening tent searches. There are many army officials at Camp 2 rumoured to have guns.
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A guest for dinner - April 23, 9.35pm (AEST)
After harsh browns, omlettes and cereal, we decided that we better do something other than eat on our rest day, so we went on a short walk to Pomori base camp. Tonight we are having adventurer Ranullph Fiennes over to our mess tent for dinner.
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Back to Base Camp - April 22, 10.20pm (AEST)
Today we descended back to Base Camp. We made good time through the ice fall and were happy we have become more efficient with our rope skills back at camp. There are a thousand different rumours flying around about when ropes will be finished and when and if we will be allowed to climb.
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Frustrated and disappointed - April 21, 8.55pm (AEST)
We're feeling both frustrated and disappointed today as we were supposed to walk half way to Camp 2. After an hour of trudging over difficult, heavily crevassed terrain, the ropes ran out. After many delays, the icefall doctors had promised the route had been fixed to Camp 2. Currently there are few ropes and over a more dangerous area than would normally be chosen. This mountain is hard enough to climb without the politics and issues of this season. Tomorrow we head back to Base Camp instead of up the mountain which will hinder our acclimitsation process.
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Moon lit start and now at Camp 1 - April 20, 7:20pm (AEST)
We woke this morning at 3am to a full moon for an alpine start, crampons on we were spoilt by the view of sunrise over Pomori and fifteen minutes later over Lingrin... streaks of light adorning these great peaks like wisps of blonde hair. We were making our way through the ice fall for the third time.
This is a part of of Everest that hold mystique and legend. Multiple gaping crevasses with wobbly ladders underneath seracs that threaten to fall at any minute it is undeniably dangerous and so we are trying to minimise our trips through it. The ice fall is also unimaginably beautiful, like no where else in the world, and we have both fallen in love with it. We made it to Camp 1 in seven hours which we are happy with given our level of acclimitisation. Tomorrow we walk half way to Camp 2.
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Off to Camp 1 - April 19
Chag Sameach to our family and friends. We are feeling very homesick being away from home on passover, but our fantastic cook Chomba is preparing an Everest Base Camp version of Seder including hard boiled eggs, salt water grated apple and walnut. At 4am we finally leave for Camps 1 and 2 as the fixed ropes and ladders should now be in place all the way up to Camp 2.
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The winds of Kalar Patar - April 13
Due to logistical issues, today became a rest day. You learn to accept these things in mountaineering, and the team, feeling strong decided to go on an acclimitisation hike up to Kalar Pata, one of the most famous trekking peaks as it offers spectacular views of both Everest and base camp.
We got every possible kind of weather today.. from the gloriously sunny start, to torrents of snow.. to nearly being knocked off the summit due to fierce winds. The walk took us up to 5,700m the high point of our trip so far, and I don't think that any of us expected how much the hike and the altitude would take out of us! The team returned to camp exhausted, but happy with the achievements of today. Tomorrow will be another rest day, and many of us could not contain our excitement at the thought of a rest and a shower!
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Such great heights - April 13
Every day, and disconcertingly throughout the night we can hear avalanches coming from the mountains surrounding camp. They roll down like an aggressive burst of thunder, and are visually spectacular. We are surrounded by giants, behind the tent is Pumori, Lhapsur and in front is Nupte, and Everest. Each take their turns to launch a temper tantrum. Once or twice throughout the season these avalanches will cover our tents at camp in snow. The avalanches are beautiful when sitting safely at camp.. but become a cold reality when faced with entering the ice fall.
Today we made our first forray into the Everest ice fall. The Khumbu icefall... so many movies, so many books, so much has been said and written about this very area. This is one of the key danger areas on the mountain. It involves ladders slung across crevasses, and precarious ice block suspended overhead.
The day was extremely successful. Lower in the icefall is quite safe, and there are only single, or double ladders across the crevasses. After our icefall training we were all feeling confident and strong, and we emerged from the day tired, but with a greater sense of what this challenge is about. However, we had to remind ourselves not to be lulled into a false sense of security. Our next forray would take us half way through the icefall, to the football field, around 5,700m. And our next trip would be to camp one. It would be then that we would see the true nature of this beast!
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Ice fall training - April 12
Today we rigged our harnesses, put on a big mountaineering boots and went to do icefall training on a practice course. The course first involved ladders suspended close to the ground, which are terrifying enough with crampons on. Soon we will be walking across four or five ladders strung together by rope hung over a crevasse that extends hundreds of metres below.
The next step was ascending an ice wall, traverse along the top, and abseil down the other side. At this altitude, this became increasingly difficult. Overall, we all had lots of fun, and feel reassured to have had some practice before we begin the real thing tomorrow!
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Puja day- April 11.
All big Himalayan expeditions begin with a Puja ceremony. The ceremony involves all climbers, sherpas and a special lama, and is prayers wishing for safe passage on the mountain. No climbing is allowed prior to the Puja ceremony. Essentially we are apologising to the god Milla Lansama and offering respect. This is done through three offerings, tsampa (roasted barely flour), chang (alcohol) and milk.
All expedition members place their boots, ice axes, and crampons on the alter to be blessed. Our base camp manager also placed her radio there to ensure that it would reveal only good news. Throughout the prayers members through rice into the air. We will also carry blessed rice, called Chundu with us onto the mountain. The idea is that when we are faced with danger we will throw the rice and it will protect us.
The ceremony draws to an end with everyone being covered in Tsampa. The idea is that everyone has a white beard so that they will live to be old and healthy. This is always lots of fun, with everyone chasing each other around, and no one being spared until they are completely white.
Also during our ceremony, a Shunga, which is a small parcel of prayers given to us by Lama Geishi, was tied around our necks.
It is an honour to be part of such an auspicious ceremony. On Cho oyu it was a surreal experience, because we had read so much about 8,000m peaks and this very ceremony. It hasn't truly settled in yet that we are now here to climb Everest. Sitting in the sun immersed in beautiful Tibetan chants, and the sound of symbols, the distant idea of long days, and hard slogs seems like an experience being prepared for someone else. But as each day passes, we get closer to this as a reality!
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Arrive base camp - April 10.
Everest peaked out from behind Nupte. A tiny little black peak with its characteristic ploom extending from it. We were almost at base camp. Hours of work, of dreaming, of training, was suddenly staring at us. This tiny little summit. We couldn't help get emotional of the meaning behind it all. We were 45 minutes from base camp.
After arriving, we were fed immense amounts of food, and moved into the tents that would become our homes for a large part of this year. The team had become quite separate over the last three days, with many of our team coming down with chest infections or cold, and using some extra time to recover. Nikki had both the flu and some stomach problems... and the reality of this mountain was settling in. This would not be an easy task. They describe Everest as a "war of attrition". You have to stay strong, healthy, eat well.. because every day living at these altitudes wears you down.. and at the end of the day, you need to have enough energy in reserve to get you up to the top.
Cheryl was feeling strong, as they always operate, she took up some of the slack and set up camp. The pair always works this way, and much of their strength is in their teamwork.
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Rest day Periche - April 5
It turns out that with a guide who bears a unique resemblance to the energizer bunny, rest days tend to be the hardest of our acclimitisation schedule. Equipped with gortex and cheese chapatis for sustenance, we aimed to climb up to 5,000m to get our lungs used to the thin air. The weather had closed in, and our ascent began in howling wind and heavy snow. We were enjoying stretching our legs though, and gaining altitude is always like "putting money in the bank"
We returned by lunch, starving and cold, but having a good day out. We spent the afternoon resting by the fire and finally getting a chance to read our books.
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Debuche - April 4
Today we trekked from Namche Bazaar. We took a small detour along the way to visit Khunde hospital. This was a really special moment for both of us, as when we were year previously we visited this very hospital and donated all of medications and supplies to them. At the time, two overworked Kiwi doctors manned the hospital, and were extremely grateful for our equipment, claiming that they used Western medications two years after their used by dates. The hospital has a unique set up. Situated at 4,000m patients are not delivered via ambulance, but rather are carried there by strong family members or hired porters. Once there, the family acts as the nursing, and medical team, providing meals, medications and general care. The doctors simply oversee the major medical issues. This is due to the lack of staff. The hospital has received a number of donations since then, and now has a small x-ray room, and two new consultation rooms.
The next part of our trek involved a sharp descent down the river. As we were running late, we decided to have lunch at a l (small tea house. After eating a ridiculous amount of fried rice and dhal (lentils) we began the ascent into Tengboche, a beautiful monastery town situated amongst the mountains. It began to snow as we were trekking, and once there we decided to wait in the bakery till the worst of the storm was over. We've been joking since Namche that we are on the bakery tour of the Khumbu. Namche bakery revealed apple cake, and chocolate crossoints, and Tengboche continued the tradition. Our pastries seemed to serve us well, as when we emerged, despite being unable to work with our full stomachs; the entire ground was blanketed in snow.
We made the quick descent into Debuche where we would be spending the night. On the way were where met with our sherpas, who were worried it had taken us so long to make it to camp. Little did they know our bakery detours!
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Phakding - April 1:.
Our very first day trekking. As we walked slowly, letting our bodies acclimitise to the thinner air, we couldn’t help be transported back to eight years ago when we walked this very path. Then, this was the biggest adventure of our lives. To be walking through the Khumbu valley, surrounded by these magnificent mountains, living in tents, and being humbled by forces of nature. Now we are here, once again feeling overwhelmed by it all.. yet this time we are here to climb the world's tallest mountain. I don’t think that the magnitude of it all has hit home yet!
The biggest trick with this part of the expedition is going to be living in the moment. We can't think about what is ahead.. the freezing cold, the illness, and certainly not the summit. The pressure of all of these things is too draining. Now we have to think trekking through some of the most extraordinary scenery, and bonding with a team that will become our family over the next ten weeks.
The trail today was very easy when you take away the symbolism of it. A simple four hour stroll at low elevation, before reaching our destination Phakding.
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